Translate

Monday, March 2, 2026

Singapore Part 1 - Peranakan Culture

Hello Everyone!

Our ship arrived at the Harbourfront Cruise Terminal in Singapore early in the morning of 28 Feb 2026. Today was the first of three days that we'll be spending here (two overnights), the longest stay in any port so far on this journey.

Singapore Background and History

Officially known as the Republic of Singapore, Singapore is a very interesting country/city. It is a sovereign island city-state in Southeast Asia, located at the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula. It's highly urbanized, modern, and technology-oriented. With 6.1 million people in just 283 square miles, it's the 3rd most densely populated country in the world. 

There are four languages here: English (the working language), Malay (national language), Mandarin, and Tamil.

It is governed as a Parliamentary Republic and has a global reputation as a financial hub, a major shipping port (second-busiest in the world), and for being highly urbanized.

But it wasn't always that way...

Originally known as Temasek (“Sea Town”) in the 13th century, Singapore functioned as a small regional trading port linked to the Srivijaya and later Malay kingdoms. It declined and was only sparsely populated by the 17th–18th centuries.

In 1819 the British, looking for a foothold in the Dutch-dominated Asian spice trade, sent Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company to the island. He recognized that the climate was good for growing spices like nutmeg, cloves, coriander, and cinnamon, and dabbled in trying to cultivate them. However, the area's true value was its strategic location on the India–China trade routes. So, he established Singapore as a free port and it enjoyed rapid growth. The population diversified with large Chinese and Indian immigration. Singapore’s identity as a global trading hub was born during this period.

The Japanese occupied Singapore during WWII, renaming it Syonan-to. The three years and eight months of occupation were brutal, marked by severe hardship and civilian massacres. At the end of the war, Singapore was returned to British control, but the myth of British invincibility was shattered and that contributed toward fueling a strong nationalistic spirit among the people.

By 1959, the country began internal self-government with the visionary Lee Kuan Yew as Prime Minister. The country joined the Malaysian Federation in 1963, but the relationship with the federation was rocky due to Singapore's pent up desire for independence. In 1965, Singapore left the federation and became a sovereign country, a very risky move economically at the time because unemployment was high and Singapore had virtually no natural resources or goods to export.

Under Lee Kuan Yew and successors, Singapore pursued export-driven industrialization by welcoming multi-national corporations with attractive incentives, instituted strict anti-corruption policies, initiated massive public housing programs, and made heavy investments in education and infrastructure. As a result, Singapore rocketed from a third-world country to first-world in a single generation, and now enjoys one of the world's highest GDPs per capita. 

Singapore is known for its strong governance and strict laws. The government gets into every phase of daily life, and punishments for infractions are severe. For example, if you are caught possessing just 15 grams of cocaine, you're assumed to be a drug trafficker, an offense punishable by death. Littering and chewing (or worse, spitting out) gum on the streets is prohibited and can result in caning. Traffic violations carry heavy penalties. There are cameras everywhere. 

Singapore has one of the highest costs of living in the world. Vehicles are heavily taxed and regulated. Just getting a permit from the government to own a car can cost between S$100k–S$120k (USD$80k - USD$95k). It's only good for 10 years, then must be renewed. The prices fluctuate because the number of certificates available is capped in order to limit the number of cars on the road, and the certificates are sold every two weeks at auction by brokers. Then you still have to buy the car and pay tax and registration. As a result, there is only moderate traffic in the urban areas. Public transportation is cheap and readily available, so most people use that instead.

First Shore Excursion - Peranakan Culture

I departed on the first of two planned shore excursions mid-morning today. The intent was to give an overview of the early settlement of Singapore by the British and to explore the Peranakan culture.

Our quite knowledgeable guide told us that Peranakan culture refers to the distinctive hybrid heritage of the descendants of early Chinese immigrants who settled in what is current-day Singapore. Since few Chinese women immigrated with them, the men intermarried with local Malay (and sometimes Indonesian) communities from the 15th to 19th centuries. The word peranakan means “locally born” in Malay. 

Over generations, a unique creole culture formed and it flourished under British colonial trade networks in the 19th century. Peranakans often became English-educated intermediaries under British rule. Many were wealthy merchants, professionals, and community leaders, and played an outsized role in early Singapore business and politics. Prominent figures such as Lee Kuan Yew (independent Singapore's first Prime Minister) had Peranakan ancestry.

Fort Canning Hill

Our first stop was Fort Canning Hill. It is one of Singapore’s most historic sites, having held three major roles across time. 

Before the British arrived, the hill (then called Bukit Larangan, meaning “Forbidden Hill”) was believed to be:

  • The seat of Malay rulers of ancient Temasek
  • A royal burial area
  • A spiritually important landmark

Archaeological digs have found 14th-century artifacts, confirming it was part of a significant pre-colonial settlement.

Archeological Dig at Ft Canning Hill
Archeological Dig at Ft Canning Hill

Pottery Shards Recovered from Site
Pottery Shards Recovered from Site

Fort Canning
Fort Canning

The Fort Canning wall tombstones are recycled grave markers from Singapore’s first colonial cemetery, embedded in the walls during 19th-century redevelopment.
Tombstones Forming the Wall Around Ft Canning
Tombstones Forming the Wall Around Ft Canning

The site had its second major role under British colonialism. After Stamford Raffles established Singapore in 1819, the British built Fort Canning on the hill. It became a key military installation protecting the colony, and it also housed government buildings and the residence of early governors. The hill is one of the few natural elevations in central Singapore, giving commanding views over the harbor and river approaches.

Its third and most famous (infamous?) historical role came during WWII. Inside the fort's underground Battle Box bunker, British command made the decision to surrender Singapore to Japan during the Battle of Singapore in February 1942. The fall of Singapore was one of Britain’s worst military defeats in Asia. It shattered British prestige in the region, accelerated anti-colonial sentiment, and indirectly helped set the stage for Singapore’s eventual independence

One of the things Stamford Raffles did at the site in the early colonial days was establish an experimental spice garden. Today's Fort Canning Spice Garden commemorates Raffles’ early-1820s attempt to turn Singapore into a profitable spice-growing colony. The experiment briefly succeeded (especially with nutmeg) but collapsed after disease and economic realities made it clear Singapore’s true advantage lay in trade, not agriculture.

Ft Canning Spice Garden
Ft Canning Spice Garden

Peranakan Village

We left Ft Canning and went to an older Peranakan section of town. We visited a house and gift shop there run by a family of Peranakan descent and had a small snack while our guide gave us some background on the early matriarchal Peranakan culture. There were numerous examples of sewing, beading, and crafts on display. 

Peranakan women were taught these skills by their mothers, and the village matchmakers noted which girls had the most talent. These exceptionally skilled young women were considered the most desirable for marriage and were matched with the best of the young men.


Handmade Traditional Peranakan Outfit
Handmade Traditional Peranakan Outfit

Handmade Traditional Peranakan Outfits
Handmade Traditional Peranakan Outfits

Handmade Beaded Slippers
Handmade Beaded Slippers

Room Displaying Peranakan Sewing and Crafts
Room Displaying Peranakan Sewing and Crafts

Harbourfront Shopping Mall

When I got back to the port, I took about an hour to walk around a HUGE shopping mall that was right by our cruise terminal. It's billed as the largest in Singapore, and that's saying a lot. It spanned three floors and covered about a city block. I walked more than 1.5 miles and only covered a portion of it! There were a ton of food places, most of them local merchants, and they sold every kind and ethnicity of food you can think of. The chains like Burger King, KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut etc. were all represented. Name a food and you could find it there.

There were also a number of clothing stores, everything from Mom & Pop shops to high-end, name brand fashions. Electronics and gadgets of every kind were plentiful. There were even grocery stores and pharmacies. It looked like any nice, upscale shopping mall in the US, except that it was crowded and well-patronized.

Harbourfront Mall
Harbourfront Mall

Harbourfront Mall
Harbourfront Mall

Back to the Ship, Then a Night Out

I headed back to the ship to get showered and changed, and then another solo friend and I went into downtown for a fancy dinner and to look around the city.

The architecture in Singapore is very modern and stunning. There are tons of skyscrapers, but there's a practical limit on their height. Singapore is a small island, and it has both an international airport and a military air base. Building height in the downtown area is therefore restricted to 280 meters (about 900 feet) in order to keep arrival and departure corridors clear for the air traffic.

Singapore Waterfront Skyline
Singapore Waterfront Skyline

Singapore Waterfront Skyline
Singapore Waterfront Skyline

Art & Science Museum Building
Art & Science Museum Building

The shuttle Viking provided dropped us off in front of the Marina Bay Sands. Opened in 2010, it is an integrated resort combining hotel, casino, convention space, retail, dining, and entertainment in a single mega-development on reclaimed land by the waterfront at Marina Bay. The casino is among the most profitable in the world, but it caters to foreigners. In an effort to reduce local gambling, foreigners can enter free of charge, but Singapore residents must pay USD$110 for a 24-hour pass or USD$2,200 for an annual pass.

The Maria Bay shopping mall is full of very high-end fashion stores such as Givenchy and Yves Saint Lauren. There were what looked like hundreds of them! After looking around a bit, we ate a wonderfully relaxing and well-paced dinner at Gordon Ramsay's Bread Street Kitchen. It's an upscale-casual British-European restaurant that serves elevated  comfort food like Beef Wellington and fish & chips in a lively waterfront setting. It offers solid, celebrity-chef dining that’s more approachable and relaxed than Ramsay’s other fine-dining venues. It was also a lot easier to get last-minute reservations here!

We both went with the daily special, the three-course "Wellington Experience" with wine pairings for each course. It was hands down one of the very best restaurant meals I've ever had. Also the most expensive...😏
Beef Wellington by Gordon Ramsay
Beef Wellington by Gordon Ramsay

Light Shows

Each evening there are free light, water, and sound shows at Marina Bay. Depending on the night of the week, there are two or three shows each night, beginning just after sunset. There's an array of computer-controlled lights and water fountains in the water, and they're choreographed with music.

After dinner, our timing was perfect to see the first light show in the bay right outside the restaurant. It went on for fifteen minutes and made the fountain display at the Bellagio in Las Vegas look tame by comparison.
Marina Bay Light Show
Marina Bay Light Show

Marina Bay Light Show
Marina Bay Light Show

The Singapore Flyer is a massive Ferris wheel on the edge of Marina Bay and one of Singapore’s most recognizable attractions. It takes about 30 minutes to make a complete circle and offers stunning views of the city from its 541 ft. top. We didn't have time to ride it, but it looked like a good time.
Singapore Flyer
Singapore Flyer

Another recognizable icon of Singapore's skyline is the Supertree Grove. The Supertrees at Gardens by the Bay are 18 towering steel-and-concrete vertical gardens, 65-165 feet tall, designed to mimic ecological functions of real trees while serving as dramatic architectural landmarks. They integrate solar panels, rainwater collection, and ventilation systems to support the surrounding conservatories. They're lighted at night, and offer their own light shows several times each evening.

They don't serve a practical purpose, but include thousands of live plants and greenery within their framework. Rain water collection systems irrigate the plants, and solar panels provide power for systems and lighting. It was really more about marketing branding the city than as a standalone conservation project.
Supertree Grove
Supertree Grove

Supertree Grove Light Show
Supertree Grove Light Show

The site is anchored by the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. There are three towers, topped by a long superstructure spanning their tops. The superstructure includes an infinity pool which gives the illusion of swimming off the edge of the tower.
Marina Bay Sands Hotel
Marina Bay Sands Hotel

On the shuttle bus back to the ship we were treated to a short but impressive fireworks display over Marina Bay. This isn't an every day thing. Rather, it was part of the 15-day long Chinese New Year celebration going on. Tonight was the third-to-last night of the holiday.
Chinese New Year Fireworks
Chinese New Year Fireworks
Back at the Ship

It was late when we got back to the ship, so all I did was get (another!) shower and hit the rack. The end of a great day of sightseeing in Singapore!

Tomorrow I'll go out on an excursion which explores the Chinese, Indian, and Arab cultures in the city.

Stay Tuned,
Jim








No comments:

Post a Comment

I'd love to hear what you think of these posts. Please keep your comments family friendly and apolitical, as this blog has a wide and diverse audience!

Popular Posts