Leixões (Porto), Portugal (Day 115)

Hello Everyone!

We arrived in Leixões (Porto), Portugal at about 08:00am on Thursday, 30 April 2026. 

Porto is the city that gave Portugal its name. In Roman times it was known as Portus Cale, which eventually evolved into “Portugal.” For centuries, it was an important trading port tied closely to England through wine commerce, especially the export of the fortified wine that became known worldwide as port wine. Much of the city’s wealth during the 17th and 18th centuries came from this trade, and traces of that prosperity can still be seen in Porto’s grand churches, merchant houses, and elegant neoclassical buildings.

This is one of Portugal’s most atmospheric and visually striking cities. Colorful tiled buildings, wrought-iron balconies, and narrow medieval streets give the city an old-world charm that feels both lived-in and timeless. At the riverfront Ribeira district, cafés and wine bars spill onto cobblestone promenades. It's just a beautiful, walkable city that makes you want to spend more time here.

Porto from the River

Porto, Portugal

However, since we were on a cruise, our time was limited to 8am to 4pm! I had just one excursion today at it was to the Aveleda winery. 

Nestled in the rolling green countryside just north of Porto, Aveleda is one of Portugal’s most historic and picturesque wineries. Family-owned since the 1870s, the estate is best known for producing Vinho Verde, the light, crisp white wine that has become synonymous with northern Portugal. But Aveleda is more than just a winery—it feels like a grand country estate hidden behind stone walls and ancient trees, with manicured gardens, cedar-lined pathways, fountains, and romantic follies scattered across the grounds.

Visitors often come as much for the atmosphere as for the wine itself. Touring the property feels a little like stepping into a quieter, more elegant version of rural Portugal—part botanical garden, part historic manor, part working vineyard. Our tasting was relaxed and welcoming, featuring the estate’s signature whites alongside local cheeses and regional specialties. It’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down, linger in the gardens, and enjoy the unhurried rhythm of northern Portuguese wine country.

Entry to Aveleda Winery

Our tour began with an hour-long guided walk through the estate's manicured botanical garden. It was incredibly peaceful and quiet.

Entry to the Gardens

This cottage was originally a gatehouse. It's no longer occupied, but it is maintained just for the atmosphere it lends to the gardens. It looked to me as if a fairy or gnome could walk out the front door at any moment.

Fairy Cottage

This tower-like structure was inside an enclosure with some small mountain goats. They seemed to relish climbing the spiral walkway around the building.

Mountain Goat Enclosure

Grapes are grown on site in the estate's manicured vineyards. This picture captures the bucolic beauty of the region.

After touring the gardens, we came inside for a tasting. We sampled two whites and one rosé wine. All were excellent. One was a Vinho Verde, so named not because it is colored green (Verde), but because it is young. Low in alcohol, crisp, and slightly spritzy, it is designed to be consumed almost immediately. 

Wine in Portugal is woven into everyday life in a way that can feel very different from the more prestige-focused wine cultures of places like France or California. While Portugal certainly produces world-class wines, much of the country’s wine tradition is centered around simple, affordable table wine meant to accompany meals rather than impress collectors. For many Portuguese families, wine is less a luxury product and more a daily staple—something poured at lunch or dinner almost as routinely as water. Families in rural areas often make their own wine in small quantities, and homemade or locally produced wine was once nearly universal in the countryside. In local cafés and neighborhood restaurants, it’s common to order a half-liter or liter of house wine for only a few euros. A bottle opened at lunch is expected to be finished. Wine accompanies conversation, seafood, grilled meats, bread, and long meals with friends and family. It’s integrated into the rhythm of life rather than elevated above it.

We spent several very pleasant hours at Aveleda before heading back to the ship.

As an aside, two of my friends were out exploring on their own and ran across what has to be the most elegant McDonald's in the world! The famous McDonald's - Imperial in Porto occupies the former Café Imperial, an elegant Art Deco café that opened in 1936 and became a well-known social gathering place for Porto’s middle and upper classes.

When McDonald’s took over the space in the mid-1990s, the company did not simply gut the building and install its normal fast-food design. Instead, the renovation preserved many of the original architectural features, including crystal chandeliers, decorative ceilings, stained glass, marble details, and the large bronze eagle above the entrance that gave the old café its “Imperial” name.

McDonald's - Imperial in Porto

What makes the place fascinating is the contrast. From the outside, you see a grand 1930s urban café crowned by a massive imperial eagle sculpture. Inside, there are ornate chandeliers hanging above people eating Big Macs and fries. The effect is oddly charming rather than tacky — almost like stepping into a preserved European café that just happens to serve fast food. 

It also says something interesting about Portugal’s approach to old buildings. In many American cities, a site like that might have been demolished decades ago or completely stripped of character during renovation. In Porto, adaptive reuse is much more common. Historic cafés, bookstores, train stations, and commercial buildings are often modernized while retaining their architectural identity. The McDonald’s Imperial is probably the most famous example because the contrast between fast food and elegant Art Deco décor is so unexpected.

McDonald's - Imperial Interior

Tonight we set sail for A Coruña in northwest Spain. This will be another brief stop, but I'm expecting an experience similar to what we had here.

More to follow!

Jim