Dover, England (Day 119)

Hello, Everyone!

We sailed into the port of Dover, England the morning of Monday, 4 May 2026. It was foggy for the last several miles, but as the sun came up, the famed white cliffs of Dover slowly emerged from the mist. I couldn't help but think of all the WWII aviators who rejoiced at the sight of those cliffs as they made their way back to England from bombing raids on the continent. It was quite moving, actually.

The White Cliffs of Dover

The gangway at the port was interesting. It looked pretty old, and I'm pretty sure it has been in use since before WWII. 

Port of Dover Gangway

The terminal building itself dates to around the late 1800s, reflecting traditional Victorian architecture common in the old train stations in England and Europe. 

The most historically significant structure here is the railway station, Dover Marine railway station, later renamed Dover Western Docks station. It opened in 1914, although the harbor and passenger facilities around it had already been developing through the late 1800s. The station was built directly beside the ferry berths so passengers from London could step off trains and board ships to France with remarkable efficiency for the era. It was part of the golden age of rail-and-sea travel, when Dover served as Britain’s primary connection to Calais and Ostend before air travel became dominant.

The architecture reflects a transitional late Victorian/Edwardian maritime style — large brick and stone terminal buildings, long covered platforms, ironwork, tall windows, and practical but elegant passenger halls designed to handle huge numbers of travelers. During both World Wars, Dover became strategically critical, and the harbor facilities played major military roles in troop movement and evacuation logistics.

Dover Marine Railway Station

Dover Marine Railway Station

My excursion for today was a tour of the historic city of Canterbury, close by Dover. Along the way we passed the Dover Castle. We could only see it from the road, however, and didn't go inside. It's quite large and formidable. During World War II, Dover Castle became a critical military command center. Hidden wartime tunnels beneath the castle served as headquarters for naval operations in the English Channel. Most famously, the tunnels were used to help coordinate Dunkirk evacuation in 1940, when hundreds of thousands of Allied soldiers were rescued from France.

Dover Castle

Canterbury has been one of England’s most important religious centers for well over a thousand years. The city traces its roots back to Roman Britain, but its defining moment came in 597 AD when Augustine of Canterbury arrived from Rome to convert the Anglo-Saxons to Christianity. His mission established Canterbury as the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, a position that remains the senior bishopric in the Church of England today. During the Middle Ages, Canterbury became one of Europe’s great pilgrimage destinations, drawing travelers from across the continent and helping the city prosper through religion, trade, and hospitality.

At the heart of the city stands Canterbury Cathedral, one of the most important and historically influential churches in England. The cathedral became internationally famous after the 1170 murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket by knights loyal to King Henry II. Becket’s death transformed the cathedral into a major pilgrimage site, later immortalized in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. Over the centuries, the cathedral grew into a remarkable blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, surviving wars, reformations, and political upheaval while remaining a symbol of English Christianity and national history.

Our time was limited in Canterbury so I decided to skip a tour of the inside of the cathedral. The lines were long, and the price for admission was rather high, so a friend and I opted to just walk through the city and have lunch in a small pub instead. But here's a picture of the entryway to the cathedral grounds.

Canterbury Cathedral Entry

There's a tradition here in Canterbury, and in fact, throughout many parts of England, to paint doors and houses in bright colors. The practice goes back a long way and is still carried out, especially in historic districts. There were several reasons for this.

• Identity and recognition
  Before modern street numbering became universal, distinctive doors helped visitors, tradesmen, and residents identify homes quickly. “The house with the red door” was genuinely useful.
• Status and pride
  In Georgian and Victorian times, a well-painted front door signaled prosperity and care. Rich pigments were expensive, so vivid colors subtly advertised that a family was doing well.
• Protection from weather
  Paint protected wood from England’s damp climate. Oil-based paints with mineral pigments tended to produce deep, saturated colors that lasted well.
• Maritime influence 
  Coastal towns had long trade connections with Europe and the sea. Imported pigments and continental influences often encouraged more adventurous color choices than inland regions.

Here are a few examples I saw in Canterbury.

Another common medieval architectural element is "wattle and daub" construction. Wattle and daub is one of the oldest building methods in Europe and was widely used in medieval England, especially in timber-framed houses like the ones in Canterbury. The technique is simple but effective. Builders first created a wooden framework, then wove thin strips of wood — called the “wattle” — between upright timbers like a basket. That woven lattice was then coated with the “daub,” a sticky mixture of clay, mud, sand, straw, and often animal dung. Once dried, it formed a reasonably strong, insulating wall surface.

The method worked well because it used inexpensive local materials and could flex slightly without cracking badly, an advantage in damp climates and on uneven medieval foundations. In many English towns, the dark exposed oak beams with pale daub panels became the classic “Tudor” appearance people now associate with medieval England. The walls were often coated with lime plaster or whitewash to help repel moisture and brighten narrow streets. Although wattle and daub seems primitive by modern standards, many structures built with it have survived for centuries because the timber frame carried the structural load while the daub simply filled the spaces between.

Wattle & Daub Architecture

This beautiful Victorian building is the Beaney House of Art & Knowledge, Canterbury’s Victorian-era museum, library, and cultural center. It opened in 1899 after a major donation from local philanthropist Dr. James George Beaney. Housed in this ornate neo-Tudor building near the cathedral, it combines local history, art collections, and quirky exhibits ranging from Roman artifacts to natural history, serving as both a community gathering place and a window into Canterbury’s past.

Beaney House of Art & Knowledge

Just in front of the Beaney House there's a statue of Aphra Behn (1640-1689) who was one of the first English women to earn a living as a professional writer.

Aphra Behn

American fast food is somewhat ubiquitous around the world, but I didn't know that Five Guys was among the chains which have gone international. The one in Canterbury was just one of several that I've seen during this cruise.

Five Guys in Canterbury

Touring Canterbury by punt (a small, flat-bottomed wooden boat) is a common practice. Here are some punters getting ready for an outing.

Punts on the River Stour

This beautiful old church is the Former Church of the Holy Cross. Originally built in 1830, it was restored in the 19th century and now serves as the guildhall for the city of Canterbury. It’s called the “Former Church” because it no longer functions primarily as an active parish church. Over time, changing populations and church reorganizations reduced its religious role, and the building has been adapted for civic and community uses.

Former Church of the Holy Cross

The Westgate Towers were constructed around 1379 and is the largest surviving medieval city gate in England. It once served as the city gate and jail, but now houses a museum.

Westgate Towers

Here's a typical view along High Street in Canterbury. It's been "pedestrianized" and was very popular on this beautiful, warm spring day.

High Street in Canterbury

After touring Canterbury, I boarded the bus for a scenic ride back to the ship. 

I saw this throwback as I entered the cruise terminal building. Bright red Royal Mail post boxes are still very much in daily use throughout England and the rest of the UK. They remain one of the most recognizable features of British streets, especially the traditional bright red cylindrical pillar boxes and wall-mounted boxes. This one dates back to the time of King George VI who ruled from 1936-1952.

Royal Mail Box

Tonight we'll depart Dover for our last stop on the world cruise, Greenwich, England, a borough of London. We'll arrive in the wee hours of the morning, which is a bit of a shame, as we'll be sailing up the Thames river. It will probably be a very scenic journey, but I'll be asleep!

See you tomorrow,
Jim