Cádiz, Spain - Day 112

Hello Everyone!

Today is Monday, 27 April, 2026, and we docked in Cádiz, Spain this morning about 10:00am. 

Cádiz is one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, with a laid-back, slightly weathered charm. The old town is on a narrow peninsula with beautiful ocean views. Tight, winding streets open onto lively plazas, tapas bars, and a golden-domed cathedral. There’s a constant ocean breeze, a mix of salty air and the delicious aroma of frying seafood, and an easy rhythm that leans more toward lingering than rushing.

Cádiz has a history that reads like a greatest-hits tour of Mediterranean and Atlantic powers. Founded around 1100 BCE by the Phoenicians as Gadir, it became a key trading hub, then passed to Carthaginian and Roman control, thriving under Rome as a wealthy port. After the empire fell, it shifted through Visigothic hands before being taken by Muslim forces in the 8th century. Christian armies recaptured it in the 13th century, and by the 1500s–1700s it hit its peak as Spain’s main gateway to the Americas, growing rich on global trade. Two of Columbus' journeys to the New World departed from the region. It also played a political role as the site of Spain’s liberal 1812 constitution during the Napoleonic Wars. From there, its importance faded as trade routes changed, but what’s left is a compact city layered with over 3,000 years of maritime history.

Cádiz as seen from the Gulf of Cadiz

Sights, Sounds, and Tastes of Andalusia

I only went on one excursion here, as our time was limited. But it turned out to be well worth it! We started with a walking tour in the vicinity of Jerez del la Frontera, a city just inland of Cadiz. Our first stop was the Alcázar of Jerez de la Frontera. It's a compact but striking Moorish fortress dating mainly to the 11th–12th centuries when the region was under Islamic rule. It is on a rise overlooking the old city, and it once functioned as both a military stronghold and a residential complex. It has thick defensive walls enclosing gardens, a small mosque (later converted to a chapel after the Christian reconquest in 1264), and beautifully preserved Arab baths with vaulted ceilings. Today, it’s one of the best-preserved alcázars in Andalusia and gives a clear sense of how a medieval Islamic fortress-city once functioned.

Alcázar of Jerez de la Frontera

Torre (Tower) Octagonal at the

Alcázar of Jerez de la Frontera

The city of Jerez de la Frontera is known for three things - sherry, horses, and flamenco. I sampled two out of three (missed the horses). It's an old city, dating back to 1,100 BCE when it was a Phoenician settlement. There's a mix of architecture here and much of it is well preserved.

Typical Street View in Jerez de la Frontera

Typical Street View in
Jerez de la Frontera

We continued our walk to the Plaza del Arenal, the main square of the city. I saw these beautiful archways there and was intrigued by the shadows cast by the morning sun.

Plaza del Arenal

Plaza del Arenal

This equestrian monument and fountain was in the middle of the square. The rider depicted is Miguel Primo de Rivera, a military officer and dictator who ruled Spain from 1923-1930.

Equestrian Monument and Fountain

Entrance to Gonzalez Byass

Now it was time for the sherry portion of the tour. We went to the Gonzalez Byass Winery. It is one of the most famous and historic sherry producers in Jerez de la Frontera, founded in 1835 and best known for its flagship fino sherry, Tío Pepe. What sets it apart isn’t just the wine—it’s the scale and atmosphere of the place. The bodega complex feels like a small village, with vine-covered courtyards, long cathedral-like barrel halls, and a layout designed to keep a stable, cool climate for aging sherry using the traditional solera system. The winery played a major role in bringing sherry to international markets, especially Britain, and remains one of the key names behind Jerez’s global reputation. Today, it’s also one of the most visitor-friendly bodegas in the region, offering tours that walk through the production process and end—naturally—with tastings.

Sherry Aging in Casks

After touring the production facilities, we enjoyed a tasting of three different sherries and some light tapas. While I appreciate sherry and I could definitely tell this was of high quality, it's not something I wanted to take home with me.

Inside the Winery Complex

Inside the Winery Complex

Our last stop was at the Venta de Vargas, a legendary Andalusian tavern in nearby San Fernando, best known as a cradle of flamenco culture. Founded in the early 20th century, it became famous as the place where the iconic singer Camarón de la Isla began performing as a young teenager, and his presence still defines the atmosphere—his photos and legacy are everywhere. The space itself feels traditional and unpolished in a good way: tiled walls, wooden tables, and a steady buzz of conversation. While it’s a working restaurant serving classic Andalusian dishes (especially seafood and tapas), people come as much for the history and occasional live flamenco as for the food. It’s one of those places that is real, not curated, more lived-in than touristy.

Venta de Vargas

We ate a very tasty and abundant lunch, then were treated to a live flamenco performance that lasted about 40 minutes. There was a classical flamenco guitarist, a singer, and a dancer. All were excellent, but the dancer stole the show with her very energetic and passionate performance. Their rhythm was impeccable, with very complicated, syncopated patterns involving feet, hand clapping, guitar, and voice.

Flamenco Performance

The one thing I didn't get to experience was Andalusian horses. The tradition of Andalusian horses around Jerez de la Frontera runs deep and blends aristocratic heritage with everyday culture. The Andalusian horse was prized for centuries by European nobility for its strength, intelligence, and natural elegance, making it ideal for both warfare and classical riding. That legacy lives on today in places like the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, where riders train horses to perform highly controlled, almost balletic movements rooted in classical dressage. 

The horses are woven into local identity, showing up in festivals, parades, and especially the ferias, where riders in traditional attire parade through town. The result is a culture where horses aren’t just animals, they’re symbols of refinement, history, and regional pride. There was a tour that went to the Royal Andalusian School, but it conflicted with the tour I'd already booked. I guess I'll just have to come back some day!

I returned to the ship, had another excellent dinner at the Italian restaurant on board, then we set sail for our next stop, Lisbon, Portugal. I've heard a lot of nice things about Lisbon and Portugal in general, so I'm looking forward to it.

More to Come,
Jim